Roujiamo — China's Original Hamburger

The Story

Roujiamo is quite possibly the world’s oldest sandwich, with roots stretching back over two thousand years in Shaanxi province. The name literally translates as “meat sandwiched in bread,” though the word order in Chinese is playfully reversed — it sounds like “meat between bread” said backwards. Xi’an’s Muslim Quarter and countless street stalls have perfected this dish over centuries, and it remains the city’s most iconic handheld food. Some locals eat one every single day without complaint.

What to Expect

You’ll receive a round, slightly flattened bun that looks like a thick English muffin, split open and stuffed with a generous pile of hand-chopped braised pork. The bread itself is the real surprise — baked in a clay oven or pan until the outside is golden and crackling, with layers inside that flake apart like a savory croissant. The pork has been simmering for hours in a fragrant broth loaded with warm spices, then chopped (never ground) so you get satisfying, irregular chunks. Juices from the meat soak into the bread just enough to moisten it without making it soggy.

The first bite delivers a crunch from the bread, then the full wave of spiced, tender pork. It tastes like the best pulled pork sandwich you’ve ever had, but with an unmistakably Chinese aromatic backbone of star anise and cinnamon.

Tips

Eat it immediately — the bread loses its crunch fast. The best roujiamo stalls will have a visible pot of braised meat simmering behind the counter and will chop the filling fresh for each order. If you see them pull a bun from a clay oven and chop the meat on a wooden block in front of you, you’re in the right place. You can also find a beef version (腊牛肉夹馍) at Hui Muslim stalls, which uses cured spiced beef instead. No sauce or condiments needed — the meat brings all the flavor.