Steamed Fish Head with Chopped Chili

The story

This is Hunan’s dramatic showpiece dish. Duò jiāo (chopped, salted, and fermented red chilies) is one of Hunan cuisine’s secret weapons, a condiment found in nearly every household. Someone had the brilliant idea to pile a thick layer of this fermented chili onto a massive split fish head and steam the whole thing. The result became one of the most well-known dishes in Hunan cooking.

The fish head used is typically a bighead carp, prized in Chinese cooking for its rich, gelatinous flesh. If eating a fish head sounds alarming, note that in China the head is considered the best part of the fish. It holds more flavor and tenderness than the body.

What to expect

It arrives looking spectacular and slightly intimidating. A massive fish head, split in half and laid open on a platter, is completely buried under a mound of bright red chopped chilies. Steam rises off the dish. An intense aroma of fermented chili and garlic fills the room. The fish flesh beneath is delicate, almost custard-like, and the fermented chilies deliver a complex heat that is sour, salty, and spicy all at once. The cheek meat is the prize: two nuggets of the most tender, flavorful fish you will find anywhere.

Tips

Use your chopsticks to dig beneath the chili layer for the best fish meat. The cheeks and the collar area have the most flesh. A pool of chili-infused sauce collects on the platter. Spoon it over rice for a good match. Ask for extra rice. Serve it family-style at a table of four or more. Do not try to order it solo.